The journey to Estadio Ciudad de México, commonly known as the Azteca, illustrated the stark contrasts within Mexico as the World Cup commenced on Thursday. Fans fortunate enough to secure tickets for the tournament’s inaugural match between Mexico and South Africa were greeted by volunteers and guided towards the stadium by steel barriers. They celebrated with chants, waved the national tricolor flag, and enjoyed beers in the streets, while traditional banda music created a lively ambiance.
In contrast, just beyond the barriers, protesters clashed with police in scenes that have become all too familiar in recent weeks. Although the number of demonstrators was smaller on this occasion—thanks to a recent agreement between Mexico’s President Claudia Sheinbaum and striking teachers—some individuals still hurled debris at riot police, who took refuge behind their shields.
There has been speculation in Mexico that the country’s participation in this World Cup has been somewhat overshadowed. With most matches scheduled to take place in the United States, which will also host the final, Canada and Mexico have been offered only a token share, or as one fan succinctly put it, “The other times we had it,” meaning a tiny piece.
“It was for the people. Not so this time.” the fan continued. “I was surprised when we left where we’ve been based,”
In stark contrast to the 1986 tournament, when Diego Maradona’s brilliance etched the event into memory, and the 1970 edition that celebrated Pelé’s triumph, this World Cup has at times felt like a mere footnote for Mexico. The steep ticket prices have not helped; on Thursday, a beer at the Azteca cost approximately 280 pesos, or $17, with tickets reaching into the thousands.
However, none of these concerns dampened the spirits of the fans eager to enter the stadium. The gates opened at 9 am, and attendees quickly streamed through the turnstiles. The Azteca, often regarded as North America’s football cathedral, has undergone extensive renovations, presenting a magnificent sight on this day, its once drab concrete facade now spruced up for the occasion.
“There were thousands of people waiting for us with words of encouragement along the route, when we were on the bus. It was beautiful, for me specifically because I grew up in this area. You’d see signs: ‘Mexico united,’ or ‘We love Mexico.’” said midfielder Érik Lira after the match, which concluded with a 2-0 victory for the hosts. “It makes your feet shake a little bit [if you’re the opponent]. You get on the bus to come here, the people are in the streets already. If you’re a player, you look around at that and you say, ‘Oof.’ You [get to the stadium] and look up and up and up and then you’re getting confused making basic passes.”
Inside the stadium, the atmosphere was even more electrifying. FIFA had attempted to transform the tournament’s opening into a grand spectacle filled with excessive pomp, but the event resonated with the spectators. The costumes, smoke effects, and the massive, bursting “4-0, the game should’ve been,” sign above the pitch contributed to a spirited show, with tournament organizers successfully integrating elements of Mexico’s rich and diverse culture.
However, Mexican fans are known for their critical stance toward the national team, often displaying fickle tendencies. South Africa, one of the less competitive teams in the tournament, posed little threat to Mexico, who comfortably secured the win despite witnessing three red cards. The weight of expectations from their own supporters could have turned negative if the match had taken a different direction.
Fortunately for Mexico, the crowd’s frustration was alleviated early when Julián Quiñones capitalized on a defensive error, giving the hosts an early lead within ten minutes. The roar from the Azteca was deafening, and on the sidelines, Mexico’s head coach Javier Aguirre celebrated with clenched fists before being engulfed by his assistants and players. This moment likely evoked memories for Aguirre, who had played in Mexico’s opener against Belgium in 1986, a match that ended in a 2-1 victory.
The atmosphere at the Azteca proved to be an overwhelming challenge for South Africa. Known as one of the most daunting stadiums globally, the Azteca’s fans are typically merciless toward rivals, especially against teams like the United States or Argentina during the World Cup. South African players faced jeers from the crowd even during their warm-ups.
“The people had a right to boo.” Aguirre remarked to reporters following the match. “It makes your feet shake a little bit [if you’re the opponent]. You get on the bus to come here, the people are in the streets already. If you’re a player, you look around at that and you say, ‘Oof.’ You [get to the stadium] and look up and up and up and then you’re getting confused making basic passes.”
Even with a 2-0 lead, Aguirre’s team faced their own share of discontent from fans. When Mexico began to pass the ball around to waste time, the supporters expressed their displeasure through whistles. While this tactical approach was understandable, especially on such a significant day, with 80,824 passionate fans celebrating not just Mexican football but also their nation, the reaction was unexpected. Mexico maintained pressure on the South African goal until the final whistle.
“4-0, the game should’ve been,” Aguirre commented with a laugh. “The people had a right to boo.”
In the end, the crowd erupted in song at the match’s conclusion, serenading both the team and one another with a powerful rendition of Cielito Lindo. It was a heartwarming scene. As fans began to exit the Azteca and pour into the streets, much of the tension between protesters and police had eased. However, this peace is likely temporary; Mexico’s deep-rooted social and economic issues will not be resolved through football.
For those inside the Azteca on Thursday, however, El Tri provided a much-needed respite.
